Chile is a land of extremes. It is a preposterously skinny tendril of a country creeping 4300km around the foot of South America, it is tip basking in tropical heat while its icy tail shivers just short of Antarctica. Nowhere else can you cans stand in the world's direst desert, gaze at snowcapped peaks then turn your head to see cool Pacific rollers creaming inland. Follow Chile's jagged Andean backbone of towering mountains south and you'll pass through ancient forests, rich vineyards and fertile valleys, past shimmering lakes and immense plains, to stumble upon the exquisite labyrinth of fjords, islands and milky-blue glaciers that graze the end of the Americas.
Sightseeing in Chile
■ Santiago: On a clear day, fresh after winter showers, Santiago basks in one of the most spectacular settings of any city in the world. A glance through the downtown blocks reveals a mighty circle of mountains – the snowcapped Andean peaks to the east, and a smaller coastal range to the west – that frames the Chilean capital.
■ Norte Grande: The Atacama Desert is the driest in the world. But this apparently lifeless earth is preposterously rich in mineral and the life-giving nitrates once coveted as fertilizer across the globe. Veins streak the land here with such come-hither clarity that it is unsurprising the region is riddled with excavations, and miners are celebrated like war heroes. And well they might be: the minerals gouged from this region are the powerhouse of the Chilean economy.
■ Northern Patagonia: Beyond the Lakes District and Chiloe, Chile becomes a serpentine swath of fjords, islands, glaciers, snowy peaks, aquamarine lakes, raging rivers, waterfalls, old-growth forests and grassy steppes. It's an area of immense beauty with the remoteness that people expect from Patagonia and won't find further south in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas. After a glance at the map, the land appears impassable and inaccessible, but the Carretera Austral actually winds itself all the way from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins, some 1200m south.
Activities in Chile
■ Trekking: The sublime Torres del Paine, in the heart of the Patagonia wilds, is one of the continent's most believed hiking destinations, graced by sparkling green forests, majestic glaciers, glistening lakes and the world-famous basalt spires or cuernos. The park has decent transportation links, regugios and campsites that allow for day hikes and multiday circuit treks.
■ Horseback riding: Feel like seeing the land from a saddle instead of a bus seat? Saddling up and following in the path of Chile's huasos (cowboys) is a fun and easy way to experience the wilderness. And exploring the Andes on multiday horseback riding trips accesses terrain you can't get to otherwise. Except in the far north, opportunities can be found just about everywhere.
■ Fishing: The Lake District makes a wonderful destination for fly-fishers to reel in trout and salmon. The season generally runs from November to May although there are a few variations. Other recommended bases include Coyhaoque. Licenses are required and can be obtained from the local municipality.
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